GARDENING

Master Gardener: Deadheading will keep your garden flourishing

Janet Tufvander, Master Gardener — Wed, 02 Jul 2025 13:00:00 GMT

It is getting that time of year again. Those lovely baskets or potted plants that were given as Mother’s Day or special occasion gifts may be starting to look a little lackluster due to blooms coming to the end of their beauty.

Removing spent blooms from your garden flowers can be tedious work but often pays big dividends. Pinching or pruning dead flowers is not just a matter of aesthetics - it can also encourage additional blooming. Many short-stemmed plants — petunia, geranium, marigold, speedwell, and coreopsis, among them — will re-bloom after deadheading.

In the grand scheme of things flowers are meant to ensure the survival of the species. All the various blooms that nature developed are an attempt to ensure that seeds are produced and the next generation of plants develops.

By deadheading, we can interrupt this reproductive cycle and encourage the plant to put its energy into re-blooming.

In most cases when deadheading you can simply remove the old flower by pinching off the stem just below the base of the flower. If the flower stem is large or you don't want to stain your fingernails green, you may find using a pruning shears or scissors to be a better choice.

Warning: simply pulling the dead flower petals off without removing the developing seed pod does not increase flower production since seeds will still develop.

Where do I pinch or cut? Any flower can be removed just above the first leaf below the flower head without affecting the rest of the plant. For plants with larger stems removing just the flower may leave an ugly stem exposed.

When deadheading long-stemmed flowers like Gerbera Daisy, Heuchera, hostas, daylilies or Shasta Daisy, remove each flower-stalk as low to the ground as possible without damaging surrounding leaves. Remember: all deadheaded flowers expect to be put on a compost pile or into a compost bin!

Even roses flower more prolifically when old flowers are removed just above the first leaf below the flower rather than at the first set of five leaves as was the former standard recommendation.

Recently, flower breeders have realized that sterile plants, those that do not produce seeds, will bloom continuously without deadheading. These plants keep on trying, unsuccessfully, to produce seeds so they keep producing flowers.

Rather frustrating for the plant, but easier for the gardener. Many of these plants are called "low maintenance" or "self-cleaning." This means that wind or other factors will cause the flowers to either blow off the plant or simply melt away leaving no old flower to remove.

Choose your tools thoughtfully! The thickness of the flower stems will determine the type of cutting device. There are small pruners that are perfect for thin stems. For thicker stems, good scissor-like pruning shears will be needed.

It is important to use the type of shears that have an both upper and lower blades that cut through the stem versus the anvil-type of pruner where the upper blade is scissor-like, but the lower blade is stationary and flat. The anvil-type tool results in the flower stem being cut and crushed at the same time, which will harm the plant.

Sometimes we don't want to deadhead! Many plants produce ornamental seed pods if the flowers are left intact.

You might choose to leave these for landscape interest during the winter or leave them as a source of seed for birds such as sparrows, or finches. Giant rudbeckia, coneflowers, echinacea, gaillardia and asters make excellent food sources during the winter.

Deadheading should be done in spring to early summer, as waiting until late summer or fall to begin is usually too late as the shortening days of fall and cooler temperatures will work against the growth of new flowers.

Deadheading is more than a gardening task — it's a way to keep your garden flourishing. By taking a few minutes to snip away spent flowers, you're investing in a garden that thrives and produces more beautiful flowers, and that's what you've been striving to accomplish!

These local garden articles will reach you each week throughout the gardening season, but gardening information can be found year-round by clicking on "Yard and Garden" at the University of Minnesota Extension website, www.extension.umn.edu, or by visiting our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/Beltramicountymastergardeners.

Local Master Gardeners will respond to questions via voicemail. Call (218) 444-7916, and leave your name, number and question.

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Master Gardener: How to keep weeds at bay

Rebecca Snyder, Master Gardener — Wed, 25 Jun 2025 13:00:00 GMT

Nothing disrupts the beauty and productivity of a garden more than a takeover of weeds.

Here in northern Minnesota, our short but intense growing season means that every moment counts for your vegetables, flowers and native plants — and weeds are all too eager to compete for sunlight, water and nutrients.

Fortunately, a combination of timing, technique and good garden habits can keep weeds in check. There are several ways to keep those pesky weeds at bay.

Early spring is the perfect time to get ahead of the weed cycle. Before planting, clear out any leftover debris and rake out sprouting weeds.

Try not to till too deep — this can bring buried weed seeds to the surface. For my garden, I use the no-till method, meaning that I remove weeds by hand and plant directly into the soil.

I also mulch heavily between rows to prevent weeds from being able to grow. Mulching is one of the most effective and environmentally friendly weed control methods. Organic mulches like shredded leaves, straw (weed-free) or grass clippings help smother weeds and retain moisture.

There are many pine trees in my yard, and I have raked up pine needles in the spring and used them for mulch for many years and it has worked well for me. I figured that my soil was alkaline, so it would balance out. But several months ago, I read in a gardening magazine that dry, brown pine needles are not acidic and make a good mulch for gardens.

For flower beds or perennial areas, consider bark mulch. It adds beauty and keeps the weeds down. Aim for 2 to 4 inches deep; too much can suffocate roots, but too little won’t block sunlight from weed seeds, causing them to sprout.

I dislike landscape fabric as a weed barrier, although it can be useful in some areas of a flower garden. Landscape fabric can work well under paths, perennial shrubs or raised beds, but it’s best avoided in annual veggie gardens, where frequent digging and planting make it cumbersome.

In the spring, black plastic can be put around heat-loving plants like tomatoes to warm the soil. However, once the heat of summer sets in, it should be taken up to prevent overheating the plants.

Some gardeners enjoy using raised beds or the square-foot gardening method in which gardeners use tightly spaced rows to shade the soil and out-compete weed seedlings. The bonus is, this type of gardening helps conserve moisture!

Understanding what weeds you’re battling helps you choose the right strategy. For example, quack grass spreads via underground rhizomes and needs to be dug out completely, pulling and breaking off the roots may make it worse.

Dandelions have deep taproots; try removing them with a dandelion weeder tool after rain when the soil is soft. Annual weeds like lamb’s quarters or pigweed can be hoed off at the soil surface when young.

Using a sharp hoe to cut weeds off at the root just below the soil line is a fast, chemical‑free approach, especially for small, young weeds. Hoeing when the soil is dry avoids making a muddy mess. Having dry soil also allows the weeds to dry out, making no chance for them to resprout.

Water only where you need it. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems reduce weed growth by depriving surrounding areas of moisture. If you overhead water your entire garden, weeds will thank you.

Weeding is the chore most gardeners dislike the most, but with a little planning and persistence, you should be able to keep weeding to a minimum.

Local Master Gardeners will respond to questions via voicemail. Call (218) 444-7916, and leave your name, number and question.

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Master Gardener: Trellising tips for growing up

Rebecca Snyder, Master Gardener — Wed, 18 Jun 2025 13:00:00 GMT

As gardeners in northern Minnesota, we know the value of making every square foot count. With our shorter growing season and often limited garden space, vertical gardening — especially trellising — is one of the smartest strategies to increase yield, improve plant health, and make harvesting easier.

Whether you're gardening in a raised bed in Bemidji or a backyard plot near Turtle River, trellising can increase your yield.

Why trellis? Using trellises isn’t just for looks — it offers real benefits, including maximizing space by growing plants upward instead of outward and improving air circulation, thereby reducing mold and disease.

Getting your produce off the ground by trellising also eases harvesting; no more bending or digging through foliage. Some pesky critters may not be able to reach your produce, leaving it for you to enjoy. Using a trellis can also reduce spoilage by being suspended and not lying on the moist surfaces of the garden.

What are good crops to trellis? Some of the obvious ones are pole beans and peas. A tepee-type trellis works well with strings or netting to encourage climbing up the trellis. A fence works well to support peas and pole beans as well, if they are about six feet tall.

An A-frame or vertical support for cucumbers keeps fruits clean, healthy and easy to pick.

Trellising tomatoes works well with indeterminate (varieties that continue to grow upwards of eight feet, sometimes more) do best with cages or posts and supported by string.

Here is an extension article mentioning three ways of trellising tomatoes: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/three-ways-trellis-tomatoes.

The basketweave or Florida weave will be tried by one of my Master Gardener friends this year.

In vegetable gardens, slings support hanging fruits like melons and squash on trellises. They prevent the fruit from snapping off due to weight or tension. Slings can be made from materials such as pantyhose, old T-shirts, or mesh bags. Small-fruit varieties like ‘Sugar Baby’ or ‘Delicata’ benefit from this support.

Vining flowers on trellises add beauty to the garden. A few flowers you could try would be nasturtiums, scarlet runner beans or morning glories to attract pollinators. A vining black-eyed Susan plant displays nicely in a pot with a trellising feature as well.

Here are a few trellising tips for you to consider: Install your trellises early, at or before planting, so roots and vines can grow in the right direction. Using strong materials like metal T-posts or cattle panels to withstand northern winds will ensure successful trellising.

You can also use items that are reusable. Think bamboo poles, wood and fencing, which can last several seasons. Pay attention to spacing and avoid crowding your plants to ensure good airflow and healthy plants.

Gardening in northern Minnesota is shaped by our unique climate and growing season. Trellising lets us grow smarter, not just bigger, by using vertical space to improve harvests and reduce disease. A little creativity can take your garden to new heights — literally!

Local Master Gardeners will respond to questions via voicemail. Call (218) 444-7916, and leave your name, number and question.

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Large tree-form lilac would benefit from pruning

Don Kinzler — Sat, 14 Jun 2025 14:17:00 GMT

Q: We have a large tree-form lilac that needs to be trimmed back quite significantly. I can’t trim very far before I cut off a lot of leaves. What’s the best way to do this? Should I be concerned that I’ll over-trim and damage the plant? — Ross L.

A: Lilacs growing on a single trunk are termed “growing on a standard.” Most are formed by grafting the shrubby Dwarf Korean Lilac onto the trunk of a related lilac, such as Japanese Tree Lilac, to produce a lollypop-shaped miniature tree. The graft is usually 3 or 4 feet above ground level.

Although they begin as miniature tree-form lilacs, they can become quite large, as you’ve found, with the top part of the “lollypop” becoming 6 feet or more in diameter. Several of us have consulted in the past as to how best to prune them, once they’ve become larger than desired in their location.

In our experience, they can be pruned quite dramatically from a 6-foot diameter crown down to 3 feet, and they come back beautifully.

Depending on the size of the location in which they were planted, they can usually be pruned back to once again fit the spot.

Pruning is never a 100% guarantee that a plant will thrive afterward, but I’ve rarely killed anything by pruning, no matter how drastically, if the tree or shrub was healthy before.

There’s always a small chance that something can go wrong, but the advantages of pruning far outweigh the risks in most cases.

To further encourage pruning, if these tree-form lilacs aren’t trimmed, they can become overly woody and begin declining. Sucker shoots growing from the base are also common, and need to be pruned away while tiny.

Please keep us posted. Lilacs can be pruned now after blossoming. I can already picture your tree-form lilac with a neater, less expansive canopy.

Q: The cucumber plants we purchased from a garden center quickly went downhill. We’ve since replaced them. What might have caused the cucumber problems? — Loretta J.

A: Cucumber and its relatives like squash, muskmelon, watermelon and pumpkin love warmth and stable temperatures. Our spring weather has been anything but stable, and many cucumbers and members of the Cucurbit family have been affected.

The hot, windy days we had in May, followed directly by chilly days and nights, could easily have caused cucumber plants to wither and suffer.

When such plants begin a downward spiral, it’s often difficult to pull them out of it, so replacement, as you’ve done, is often the best option.

Q: How do we get rid of mushrooms in the lawn? There’s been a small patch for several years, and now there are eight. — Carol N.

A: Mushrooms popping up in the lawn can be annoying but don’t usually harm the turf. The visible mushroom is the spore-producing structure of these fungi that grow on organic material, which can be the thatch layer, old tree roots, or other underground material.

Most of the mushroom fungal structure is below ground, and once the decayed material is decomposed completely, the mushroom fungus usually disappears. Such fungi are part of nature, necessary for decomposing wood, stumps, roots and similar organic materials.

Mushrooms pop up during certain times and under certain moisture conditions, especially when rainfall or irrigation is plentiful.

There are no chemical products that successfully remove mushrooms from lawns. Rake off and dispose of the visible mushrooms, as they can spread spores.

Aerating the lawn with a core aerator and increasing the airflow into the turf can speed the decomposition of the organic material on which the fungi are growing, speeding their disappearance.

Bleach, vinegar or other home remedies suggested online can be harmful to lawn grass. Fungicides are generally preventive, so once mushrooms are established, such chemicals are ineffective.

If you have a gardening or lawn care question, email Don Kinzler, NDSU Extension-Cass County, at

donald.kinzler@ndsu.edu

. Questions with broad appeal may be published, so please include your name, city and state for appropriate advice.]]>

Area maple trees are susceptible to iron deficiency

Don Kinzler — Sat, 14 Jun 2025 12:14:00 GMT

Have you noticed the lemon-yellow trees on area streets and in yards? A common ailment strikes like clockwork on certain maple types.

My wife, Mary, always one to look on the bright side, suggested the brilliant yellow maples are “showy,” providing contrast with the rich green of other trees.

Unfortunately, the trees with the bright yellow foliage will almost always decline, unless action is taken.

When leaves turn an unnatural shade of yellow, they’re termed “chlorotic.”

Because the most common cause of this yellowing is iron deficiency, the disorder is called iron chlorosis (pronounced klor-OH-sis). It happens when trees can’t absorb enough iron from the soil to meet their nutritional needs.

Maples, especially the Autumn Blaze types, are commonly affected, but iron chlorosis can also affect other trees and shrubs, such as roses, apples and even strawberry plants.

The first symptom of iron chlorosis is yellow leaves with bright green veins. If iron is lacking in leaves, they can’t produce the green pigment called chlorophyll, resulting in yellow instead.

If left untreated, leaves become increasingly pale and edges turn brown and crisp. Branch dieback follows, and trees can die.

Iron tends to be more available in regions where the soil is slightly acidic, and less available in the alkaline soil prevalent in North Dakota and western Minnesota.

Using materials like sulfur to make the soil more acidic around an established tree is difficult because of the large soil mass, and lasts only a year or two at best.

Instead, to treat iron deficiency chlorosis, garden centers sell various forms of iron products that are more easily accessed by plants, commonly called chelated iron (pronounced KEY-lated).

Some types are sprayed onto the foliage, and leaves can green up within several weeks, with the treatment lasting one to three months.

Other forms are applied to the soil, and visible results might take several months, but soil applications last longer than foliar applications, usually a year. Iron can also be injected into the tree by inserting capsules into holes drilled in the trunk.

When applying any of the chelated iron products, follow the label directions carefully to ensure success. Trees that have suffered from the ailment for years and are in a state of decline might not respond to treatment.

Joe Zeleznik, North Dakota State University Extension forester, says, “You can never predict what’s going to happen with iron treatments. Try one treatment, and if it doesn’t work, try another. Iron chlorosis is very tricky to treat.”

Although early spring is the preferred time to apply iron products, Zeleznik says he would still treat a chlorotic maple in late June. He suggests trying treatments that would likely result in a quick response, such as chelated foliar treatments or trunk injections.

“I would even apply iron as late as the end of July,” Zeleznik adds. “However, as we get into August and later, I wouldn’t treat.”

Zeleznik says soil-based treatments take a long time to show results, making them an attempt at a longer-term solution.

An alternative to do-it-yourself iron treatments is to hire a professional. Many tree services provide iron injections, which can be highly successful, especially if applied at the early stages of iron deficiency yellowing.

Along with available iron, other soil qualities determine whether particular maples will grow in an area. Many maples are best suited to the naturally forested soils found east of the Red River Valley from Minnesota eastward.

In contrast, from the Red River Valley and points west, most soils are of prairie grassland origin, and some tree types, such as Autumn Blaze maple, are less likely to thrive in prairie-type soils.

Dr. Todd West, director of the NDSU Woody Plant Improvement Program, says, “I’m not a fan of Autumn Blaze maple. It’s not well adapted to our climate and environment. It’s a real hit or miss tree and generally a miss.”

West adds, “People get stuck on the red fall color, but as with a painting, our landscapes need to be filled with all the fall colors, including reds, oranges, yellows and golds, and not a monochrome of red.”

For fall color, West recommends Northern Empress Japanese Elm, an NDSU introduction, Crimson Spire Oak, and Prairie Statue Oak, also an NDSU introduction.

If a maple is desired, instead of Autumn Blaze, West suggests the following cultivars: Rugged Ridge Maple, State Street Maple, Northern Spotlight Korean Maple, Autumn Spire Red Maple, Redpoint Red Maple, Northern Flare Sugar Maple, Fall Fiesta Sugar Maple, Hot Wings Tatarian Maple, Red Wing and Ruby Slippers Amur Maples, Celebration Maple, Firefall Maple and Marmo Maple. All have shown tolerance to the high pH conditions at NDSU’s Dale E. Herman Research Arboretum.

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Master Gardener: Watering tips for garden success

Sara Corry, Master Gardener — Wed, 11 Jun 2025 13:00:00 GMT

It’s that wonderful time of year when we all get excited about planting. Visits to the garden center give us lots of ideas about gardening and landscaping, and we can hardly wait to get home and put those new plants in the ground.

To keep those new plants thriving, it’s important to water them correctly. Here are a few tips.

For annual flowers and vegetables grown in six-packs or small pots, water them thoroughly before transplanting into the garden. Once planted, water deeply. Really soak the soil — a light spray from the hose won’t do it. If your weather is dry, water daily for the first week to help the plants get over transplant shock and start growing. Mulch around the plants to retain moisture. Then, check your soil — if it’s dry 1-2 inches down, it’s time to water.

A basic rule of thumb is that an established vegetable garden needs an inch of moisture (rain or supplemented water) per week. Use a rain gauge to determine how much water you need to supplement. An inch of water on a 10-foot by 10-foot garden area is 62 gallons.

As a comparison, a 10-minute shower uses about 25 gallons. If your garden needs water, go ahead and water it today, even if the weather forecast calls for rain tomorrow. The sandier your soil, the more often you will need to water your plants.

Adequate water is necessary for plants to use nutrients in the soil to allow them to thrive and produce flowers and fruits. See the following article from UMN Extension for more information, extension.umn.edu/how/watering-vegetable-garden.

Perennial plants need regular, deep watering for the first week, too. After that, you can start cutting back to every other day and then to once a week. Remember to water deeply — this is important for the roots to grow down to stabilize the plant and reach nutrients in the soil, as well as to access water. A plant with shallow roots will be less healthy.

Newly planted trees and shrubs also need regular watering until they get established. As a guide, water daily for the first 1-2 weeks, then every 2-3 days for the next several months, then weekly after that. Trees and shrubs can take up to two years to fully establish.

Again, remember to water deeply to encourage strong root development. The following article has lots of good information about watering new trees and shrubs, extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs.

Harvesting rainwater can be beneficial to the environment, your water bill, and your plants. But remember to only use harvested rainwater on plants not intended for food, as it may contain heavy metals and chemicals from roofing material that are taken up into the plant and are hazardous to our health if consumed. For more information about harvesting rainwater, see the following article: extension.umn.edu/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard/rain-barrels.

These are a few tips for ensuring your gardens will be successful. Enjoy all those beautiful new plants — happy summer gardening!

Local Master Gardeners will respond to questions via voicemail. Call (218) 444-7916, and leave your name, number and question.

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What is this plant that keeps appearing in my yard?

Don Kinzler — Sat, 07 Jun 2025 14:15:00 GMT

Q: Every spring, the little plants in the photo are in our grass, mostly just in our front yard. They seem to go away in the summer, or maybe I get blind to them. I’ve done numerous searches with apps and Google, and I get a lot of different answers. Can you help me identify? — Staci F.

A: The little plant is a seedling linden tree. There are many linden types, including American Linden, also known as basswood.

Linden seedlings have a very distinctive look, and the first set of leaves that appear after the seeds germinate have a wavy, or hand-like appearance, which can be seen in your photo. The leaves that develop after the first set look like normal linden leaves.

Linden seedlings pop up in landscapes, flowerbeds, pots and planters, and in the lawn, as yours are doing. Somewhere in the vicinity is a linden tree.

Although linden trees are a wonderful species, when they pop up in unwanted places, they’re annoying. If there are only a few small seedlings, they pull easily when soil is wet. For large quantities, lawn-type herbicides will usually kill them. Simply mowing also keeps them in check, or at least from getting any taller.

In flowerbeds or landscapes, there are no herbicides that will selectively kill nuisance tree seedlings without damaging “good” plants, if the herbicide contacts your desirable plants. Pulling or careful digging is a preferred option.

If a tree seedling has become large, it can be cut off at soil level, and the cut surface immediately saturated with a lawn weed killing herbicide such as the active ingredient 2,4-D. Care must be taken to only target the cut surface of the seedling tree, without getting the product on the surroundings.

Q: I have about 200 plants of asparagus that are 15 or more years old, and grass has taken over. What can I spray to kill the grass and not the asparagus? The grass is overwhelming. — Kathy C.

A: Luckily, there are products sold at garden centers that specifically kill grass, without harming other non-grass plant types. Such products, when the label is followed carefully, can be applied right over the top of the existing “good” plants and the grass will be killed, which is useful for removing quackgrass or lawngrass that’s invaded where you don’t want it.

Examples of these grass-killing herbicides include Bonide Grass Beater, Ortho Grass-B-Gon, and HiYield Grass Killer. Bonide Grass Beater’s label indicates it can be applied to asparagus.

Follow the label instructions carefully. When used as directed, I’ve had good results when applying these herbicides to remove grass from perennials, landscapes and edibles. Check the label to be sure it lists the plants you wish to apply the product to.

Grass-killing herbicides take time to produce visible results. Grass growth stops fairly soon after application, but it can take two to three weeks for the grass to appear brown and be totally killed.

Q: How often should I fertilize my Wave Petunias in our planters so they bloom really well? — Jen C.

A: Wave Petunias and other new varieties of petunias become spectacular mounds of color. Because they are so floriferous, they’re also “heavy feeders,” meaning they require generous nutrition to produce and support all those flowers.

Many potting mixes have slow-release fertilizer that provides a good base of nutrition. The label on most potting mix bags indicates that supplemental water-soluble type fertilizer can also be applied.

Most gardeners fertilize their petunias in pots and planters every one-to-two weeks, and it works beautifully. Follow the rate indicated on the label.

If you have a gardening or lawn care question, email Don Kinzler, NDSU Extension-Cass County, at

donald.kinzler@ndsu.edu

. Questions with broad appeal may be published, so please include your name, city and state for appropriate advice.]]>

Perennials add color to early summer landscapes and flowerbeds

Don Kinzler — Sat, 07 Jun 2025 12:11:00 GMT

Why did the gardener bury a $100 bill beneath each new perennial? The tag said they needed rich soil.

Dollar bills might add a little organic matter as they decompose, but it’s not necessary to bury money to promote early summer color in flowerbeds and landscapes. We can simply plant perennials that bloom profusely in June.

Annual flowers in pots and planters on decks and patios will soon be loaded with color as they grow larger, cascade with blossoms, and reach peak perfection by mid-summer.

Until the annuals gain full speed, early summer can lack color. But if we plan properly, June-blooming perennials can bridge the color gap, making this month one of the most colorful of the summer season.

A favorite perennial of ours that begins flowering in late May and extends well past mid-June is perennial salvia, with its deep blue or bluish-purple spike-shaped flowers. Several years ago, we planted masses of Blue By You Salvia, a recent All-America Selections perennial winner.

Blue By You has stronger stems than some older varieties, making it less prone to flopping apart. Its flower spikes are held sturdily above clean foliage, reaching a height of around 20 inches.

Blue By You has proven winter-hardy, even during the past test winter, whose lack of insulating snow caused death or damage to many established perennials.

Blue By You will bloom again in mid-to-late July if, after the June flower spikes are faded and dry, the spikes are sheared off right above the foliage. Even when not in bloom, the deep green plants are attractive.

Blue By You is available at garden centers as potted plants, but if it’s sold out for this season, you can add it to your wish list for next spring. Besides Blue By You, other beautiful perennial salvia cultivars are also on the market.

Next on the list of reliable June-blooming perennials is the timeless iris. Dwarf iris types bloom in May or early June, while the tall bearded iris, also known as German iris, come into full glory in June.

Named after the goddess of the rainbow, iris are available in more colors than perhaps any other perennial flower, with every color of the rainbow, even black and white.

Some iris cultivars are termed “rebloomers,” meaning they occasionally will bloom again in September. One of the most common rebloomers is the cultivar Immortality, a beautiful white. Although the repeat bloom isn’t a sure thing, it happens quite regularly and seems to be weather-dependent.

When iris are done blooming, groom the plants by removing the spent flower stalks. Even when iris are not in blossom, the bluish-green, sword-shaped leaves are attractive in flower gardens and landscapes.

The most pleasing perennial gardens and landscapes are created by combining a mixture of flower times, shapes and colors. Iris are dependable perennials for Northern gardens and help fill the need for color in June.

No mention of June-blooming perennials would be complete without the venerable peony. A staple in pioneer flower plantings, peonies can remain in place for more than a century.

Peonies bloom sometime between late May and mid-June, depending on the weather and the location in which peonies are planted. If located in the warmth along the south sides of buildings, peonies bloom earlier.

Although September is the traditionally successful date to dig, divide or move an established peony, garden centers offer potted peonies, which can be planted all summer.

Peonies, like iris, are beautiful even when not in bloom. The deep green, waxy leaves on strong stems create a shrub-like appearance, adding landscape interest.

To enhance the after-bloom beauty, remove spent flowers as they fade, cutting the blossoms’ stems just below the foliage level.

Powdery mildew fungus can cause foliage to be unsightly, creating a gray coating on leaves. Prevent the disease while the foliage is still healthy by applying a garden fungicide that list powdery mildew and peony on the label.

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Only you can prevent the spread of pests

Michael Johnson — Fri, 06 Jun 2025 10:30:00 GMT

The seasoned farmer likely doesn’t come across too many things that surprise them, yet it does happen on occasion.

I can recall that one summer when reports of an armadillo sighting were stirring through our little part of the country in central Minnesota. It was as if Bigfoot himself had passed through on his way to the deep north woods. The excitement ended abruptly one morning when the little armadillo showed up as roadkill not far from the farm. Considering their range is about as far as Kansas, rumors ran wild around the kitchen table about how it got here or who brought it here.

More recently, we’ve had traveling moose or elk pass through that have caused a social media sensation. While that’s quite exciting, it’s more likely that you’ll find surprises growing in your fields that cause frustration. The spread of weeds such as Palmer amaranth are enough to keep Extension agents and farmers on edge throughout the growing season.

I’ve been around farming and gardening long enough that you’d think I’d pay more attention to the types of weeds that infiltrate the growing areas. Instead, I typically just pull whatever is not the intended plant and hope it doesn’t come back.

A website I recently looked into called “Report a Pest” invites people like you and me to take a step of action. Sure, it’s important to remove the pest in most circumstances, but if you don’t know what pest is growing, munching or infecting your plants, maybe it’s time to do some homework and find out once and for all. This effort is a community science-based approach by the Minnesota Department of Agriculture to track the movement of some of these pests.

Report a Pest involves some important steps:

Take pictures of the pest or disease. Take notes of the exact location of the pest. Address GPS coordinates as well as land descriptions. If it’s an insect, take pictures and notes about the plant where the insect was found. Note the size and colors. Capture the insect if possible or take a sample of the plant. You’ll want to take precautions here because these are insects or plants that you are unfamiliar with. You could get stung or have allergic reactions or if the plant is called Audrey, far worse things could be in store. Report findings to Report a Pest using an online reporting form, send photos and notes by email (reportapest@state.mn.us), use the mobile app or call 1-888-545-6684 with a detailed message.

All this can be done within minutes of finding the pest.

Some of these efforts have helped detect plant species on the noxious weed list, including Palmer amaranth, tree of heaven, and giant hogweed.

Early detection is essential to keeping noxious weeds out of the region. You know your fields better than anyone and state agencies can only cover so much ground. You can make a difference today toward less troubles in the future for you and your neighbors.

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Master Gardener: Ever heard of a honeyberry?

Joyce Rairdon, Master Gardener — Wed, 04 Jun 2025 13:00:00 GMT

What on earth is a honeyberry, you might ask?

I have been growing honeyberries for about 10 years and have enjoyed many fine desserts and jams from their fruit. Honeyberries grow on bushes about three to four feet tall, are blue to deep purple, larger than a blueberry and elongated. I think they taste like a blueberry/raspberry mix with a hint of lemon.

Growing honeyberries (Lonicera caerulea), also known as haskap berries, can be a rewarding experience. These berries are not only delicious but also hardy and easy to grow in our USDA hardiness Zone 3a. Some varieties are hardy up to Zone 2.

Honeyberries are available at most garden centers in the area, can be ordered online or take a visit to HoneyberryUSA near Bagley.

Here are some tips to help you get started growing your own honeyberries. They require cross-pollination to produce fruit, so it's essential to plant at least two different varieties. This will ensure better fruit set and yield. Common varieties for our neck of the woods include Aurora, Borealis, Honey Bee and Tundra, to name a few.

When planting your honeyberries, choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil. The berries can tolerate a range of soil types, but they prefer slightly acidic to neutral pH levels. Plant the bushes at the same depth they were in their nursery pots. Space them about 4-5 feet apart to allow for proper growth and air circulation.

Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the first year of growth. Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Honeyberries have low fertilizer requirements. A balanced fertilizer (such as 5-5-5) applied in early spring should be sufficient.

The berries are usually ready to harvest in early summer, mine typically are ready by late June, although my daughter-in-law at Detroit Lakes has picked some already this spring. Mother Nature seems a bit mixed up this year. The berries should be fully blue/purple and slightly soft to the touch.

Prune honeyberries immediately after fruiting to encourage new growth and maintain their shape. They bloom and fruit on old wood, so avoid heavy pruning.

Honeyberries are generally resistant to pests and diseases, but keep an eye out for common issues like aphids and powdery mildew. In my experience, pests have never been a problem, but our dog loves them, so we have to keep her out of the garden while the berries are ripening. We try to leave a few of the latest berries for the birds to enjoy.

Once you have picked your honeyberries, you treat them like blueberries, pick out the damaged ones, leaves, twigs and other debris. They can be frozen for yummy desserts later. I have made honeyberry crisp, served with whipped cream or ice cream.

I have made a sweetened, thickened sauce to serve on pancakes or layered in a trifle bowl with angel food cake squares, lemon pudding and cool whip. Honeyberry jam is delicious as well. Honeyberries can be substituted for blueberries in just about any recipe: muffins, pies and even smoothies.

I hope you consider growing this easy-to-grow fruit for a new culinary experience. You will be glad you did.

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