NORTH COUNTRY TRAIL

Bovey resident wants to close North Country Trail's 'Big Gap'

Ryan Rodgers — Thu, 01 May 2025 12:00:00 GMT

BOVEY, Minn. — At 78 years old, Cavour Johnson says his time is limited for maintaining trails through the sprawling pine woods north of Bovey.

When he learned the North Country National Scenic Trail was struggling to find passage through terrain he’s been wandering since childhood, he sought to forge a scenic route that could be folded into something lasting.

“I’m a trails guy,” the soft-spoken retired dentist said, stepping between jack pines onto a narrow path. In decades past, Johnson built cross-country ski trails at Mount Itasca in Coleraine and helped develop the Mesabi Trail, the paved bike path spanning 150 miles between Grand Rapids and Ely.

The biting wind this late April morning spurs irreconcilable differences between steely clouds and spring sun, both vying for dominance. Wearing several layers of clothing, Johnson walks the high southern bank over the West Fork of the Prairie River, its bottom of rippled sand visible through water tinted like weak herbal tea. Frantic wood ducks scream at Johnson’s approach, while newly arrived yellow-rumped warblers flit unbothered in alder bushes.

“You don’t see anybody out here,” he said. “It’s like you’re way out in the boonies.”

One could make a strong case that there are no "likes" about it, that this place is most definitely in the boonies.

Meandering 4,800 miles from North Dakota to Vermont, the North Country National Scenic Trail crosses eight states and is the country’s longest such footpath. According to the National Park Service, which oversees National Scenic Trails, these paths are “intended to showcase our country’s spectacular natural resources and beauty ... connect communities, significant landmarks and public lands.”

The NCT was created in 1980 and is still unfinished, but its venerable siblings, the Appalachian and Pacific Crest trails, draw thousands of long-distance hikers every year. The NCT enters Minnesota from the west near Fergus Falls before winding 850 miles through the state. After passing Detroit Lakes, it joins long sections of completed footpath through Itasca State Park and the Chippewa National Forest.

Farther on, from Snowbank Lake, east of Ely, the NCT follows 400 miles of preexisting footpath through the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness and along the North Shore on a network of the Kekekabic, Border Route and Superior hiking trails, until it traverses Duluth before finally reaching Wisconsin through Jay Cooke State Park.

Between Snowbank Lake and the eastern end of the Chippewa National Forest near Grand Rapids, however, lurks a 150-mile section of missing trail, known as The Big Gap.

In 2020, during the pandemic, Johnson cared for someone undergoing medical treatment. To protect that person, whom he doesn’t want named, he socially distanced and found himself cut off from his usual community involvements. He needed to do something to counteract his isolation and caretaking stress. He’d been thinking that the NCT’s proposed route was flawed.

On paper, it ran through a huge swamp surrounding Bear Lake — no way to build a trail there.

He thought he could find a drier crossing just a few miles south that was also prettier and decided to scout a route between Scenic Highway and Minnesota Highway 65, a crow-flight of 8 miles through country he knew well. His parents had bought land here in the early 1950s, and he still owns 40 acres on Hartley Lake, a wide spot on the West Fork of the Prairie River.

I’ve gone into this thinking I might not be around to see the development happen, but am satisfied that I’m contributing.

For decades, he’s maintained informal walking and cross-country ski trails on his land and neighboring county forest. In fall 2020, he set out with a compass, flagging tape and detailed paper maps.

“I can’t tell you how much I enjoyed tramping through the woods,” he said, adding that he got worryingly lost a time or two. Over a couple years, he cobbled together a route and convinced the state’s trail coordinator to come see it.

Matt Davis, based in Detroit Lakes, Minnesota, works with the nonprofit North Country Trail Association as the coordinator for North Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin. Davis told Johnson it’d be a tough sell to get the National Park Service to change the route.

The origin of The Big Gap stems from the 2019 redirecting of the trail into the Arrowhead region and away from 75 miles of bog between Grand Rapids and Duluth, the crossing of which would have required building Guinness World Records-worthy boardwalks through aptly named Floodwood. The Arrowhead Reroute accessed a wealth of existing trail and what is arguably the state’s most scenic corner, but had required years of dogged work and an act of Congress.

In other words, changing routes cannot be done on the fly, but, because of Johnson’s persistence, Davis eventually drove to Bovey. In unorganized territory north of town, Johnson led Davis on a stroll along the West Fork of the Prairie River, into what he calls “a church of trees.” They hiked under towering red and white pines that so far have avoided being logged because of their proximity to the river.

Johnson named the two largest pines. Using a species-specific formula for aging trees from the Department of Natural Resources, he calls a red pine with a 9-foot circumference "Andrew Jackson" because it’s about 189 years old and therefore sprouted during Jackson’s presidency. The 11-foot circumference "James Madison" white pine is even older, dating back 211 years to 1814.

Davis stared into the pines and admired the river and decided to propose Johnson’s route to the National Park Service. “I’ve always looked at the trail as connecting pearls, and this is a pearl,” Davis said. In April, the Park Service approved Johnson’s route.

“He found a gem,” Davis said. "Just a perfect spot for a hiking trail.”

After The Big Gap originated as a side effect of the 2019 reroute, the North Country Trail Association’s all-volunteer, Grand Rapids-based Arrowhead Chapter began making tread. Last summer, 2.5 miles of new trail opened in Cohasset, the first of what will eventually be an 18-mile stretch that gets the NCT off roads and into the woods between the Chippewa National Forest and Grand Rapids. Until a woods path is developed northeast from Grand Rapids, hung on Johnson’s trail, the route will follow the paved Mesabi Trail to Ely.

The new piece of NCT leaves Tioga Beach on Pokegama Lake and climbs under oaks a hill inhabited by miniature eastern leatherwood trees. Natural bonsais at only a few feet tall but with the shape of a mature shade tree, the understory leatherwoods are already flowering with tubular yellow blooms.

The trail crests the hill atop a 150-foot-high bluff over the water-filled Tioga Mine Pit. Steely clouds have won the day, and the drably lighted April forest stands in odd contrast with the Caribbean-blue water in the pit.

Atop grown-over mining spoil where ore was once processed, and down to a pond rimmed in cattails and occupied by raucous red-winged blackbirds, the trail crosses a road under the watch of a broad-winged hawk, back for spring and crying atop a tall aspen.

On the other side, the rolling maple forest looks primeval, but the topography was created by mining less than a century before. Spring peepers chant unseen from an ephemeral pond in the lee of the hill. The late afternoon grows quiet until the trail bypasses a pond filled with furious ducks.

The pretty pond looks natural, but was created as a settling pond for mining runoff. The trail spits out onto True Road and continues into the forest on the other side.

Near here in 2022, a long-distance hiker crossed paths with a volunteer trail crew and spontaneously pitched in. Later that year, Aaron Landon became the 13th person to thru-hike the NCT.

“I came into Grand Rapids and spent the weekend with the trail crew learning what is involved with making a National Scenic Trail,” he recalled. “I didn’t realize the amount of work, hours and labor that went into it.”

From March to December, Landon spent 252 days walking the 4,800 miles. He was taken by the region and moved to Ely in 2023. Now, he’s volunteering on the other side of The Big Gap, blazing fresh trail between town and his home on Snowbank Lake.

Johnson is excited about his trail’s inclusion into the NCT.

“I’ve gone into this thinking I might not be around to see the development happen, but am satisfied that I’m contributing,” he said. Then he hopped over a wet spot beneath a steep hill and walked along the river.

If you go What: Help Grand Rapids-based Arrowhead Chapter volunteers close the North Country Trail's "Big Gap" When: 9 a.m. May 16-18 Where: Tioga Beach parking lot, 24308 Tioga Beach Road, Cohasset Details: Bring work clothes, work gloves, sturdy footwear, trail lunch, plenty of water; safety equipment, tools, instruction provided. More info: arw@northcountrytrail.org, facebook.com/arrowheadhikers]]>

North Country Trail Association to host annual celebration event

Pioneer Staff Report — Thu, 08 Sep 2022 18:01:04 GMT

WALKER — The North Country Trail Association invites the public to celebrate the North Country National Scenic Trail and all those who care for it during a celebration event Oct. 5-9 in Walker.

“A variety of activities are offered to celebration participants, including skills workshops, engaging presentations, hiking opportunities and much more,” a release said.

This year, the NCTA’s annual celebration is a gathering of North Country National Scenic Trail supporters, outdoor enthusiasts, volunteers, staff and agency partners coming together to explore new sections of the trail and to celebrate local volunteers and partners that manage it.

“Historically a membership gathering of the association, this event has grown to be far beyond that and attracts new people every year,” the NCTA website reads. “Now, often more than 400 people attend from 10 or more states each year. All are welcome to join, and we hope you’ll feel part of our trail community when you do.”

Taking place in Walker, Chase on the Lake will be the main celebration location while many activities will be on nearby trails and at the Northern Lights Casino.

"From the leisurely lake walk of downtown Duluth to the rugged Sawtooth Mountains to the prairies of the Red River Valley to the gentle rolling Laurentian Divide, the NCNST offers a cache of contrasting hiking experiences across its roughly 850 miles in Minnesota," the release said.

Pre-registration is required by Sept. 14. Interested participants are encouraged to register for the event itself and then select the activities in which they would like to participate. To register, complete the online form at northcountrytrail.org/celebration/registration.

For more information and to see the celebration schedule, visit northcountrytrail.org/celebration.

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Discover the North Country National Scenic Trail

Shannon Geisen — Wed, 07 Sep 2022 14:31:30 GMT

A hidden gem meanders through lake and pine country.

It’s called the North Country National Scenic Trail (NCT).

It’s one of 11 national scenic trails in the U.S. and the only one in Minnesota.

NCT is a footpath stretching over 4,800 miles – from central Vermont to central North Dakota.

Being open to foot traffic only, Minnesota’s trail holds unimpeded travel for hikers, berry pickers, mushroom hunters, geocachers, cross-country skiers and snowshoers.

Short day hikes or overnight hikes are possible.

Maps, events and suggested hikes are available at www.northcountrytrail.org.

Anyone walking this trail is in for a treat as it meanders through forested hills and valleys interspersed with rivers, lakes and numerous wetlands.

At most locations, there is a kiosk or signboard with information about the trail. Hiking distances to the nearest kiosk are also provided.

A “Guide to Hiking the North Country Trail in Minnesota” guidebook is available in bookstores in Park Rapids, Itasca State Park, Tamarac National Wildlife Refuge and online.

Get involved with local chapters

The NCT is administered by the National Parks Service, managed by federal, state and local agencies, and built and maintained primarily by the volunteers of the North Country Trail Association (NCTA) and its partners.

The 28 chapters of the NCTA, its 3,200+ members and each affiliate organization have assumed responsibility for trail construction and maintenance of a specific section of the NCT.

Do you enjoy hiking and are you looking for a group to hike with on a regular basis?

Join these area NCTA hiking groups: Laurentian Lakes or Itasca Moraine.

The area’s segments of the North Country Trail are maintained by these two chapters.

Bob Becklund is president of the Laurentian Lakes Chapter.

“The Laurentian Lakes Chapter maintains over 60 miles of the NCT through Becker and Clearwater counties, using only volunteers and donations,” he explained. “We currently have about 125 chapter members and a small subgroup of them volunteer to maintain the trail with mowers, chainsaws, hedge clippers, pruners, snowblowers and the many hours of walking it takes to cover those 60 miles of our section. We are always looking for more help!”

To join the Laurentian Lakes chapter, volunteer for administrative or trail work, or donate funds, contact Karen at 218-841-2857 or LLC@northcountrytrail.org.

The Itasca Moraine Chapter maintains 75 miles of the trail in Hubbard and Cass counties.

Since formation in the spring of 2002, the chapter has been engaged in extending the NCT from the west boundary of the Chippewa National Forest through the Paul Bunyan State Forest and Hubbard County’s tax-forfeited forestlands toward Itasca State Park.

Itasca Moraine Chapter meetings are held in Akeley, Bemidji, Hackensack, Laporte, Park Rapids, Walker and other towns in northern Minnesota.

For more information on the Itasca Moraine Chapter, contact president Ed Ranson by email at itm@northcountrytrail.org.

Rewards along the trail

Eric Haugland, a member of Itasca Moraine chapter, says, “Hiking along an undeveloped forest lake allows you to experience wildlife with little human activity, and see lady’s slippers, wild rice and other flora in a natural setting.”

Later in the summer, Haugland said hikers are rewarded by finding wild strawberries, raspberries and blueberries along the trail.

Small wild plums are a late seasonal fruit found on the trail in high, dry areas.

“These are some of the extra bonuses when maintaining or hiking the trail,” he said.

Mushrooms and fruits can be picked along the trail and within the state park for non-commercial and personal use.

One of Haugland’s favorite hikes is Upper Teepee Lake when a sole birch forest turns yellow.

“Beavers, otters, nesting loons and trumpeter swans are found in and on the lakes,” he said.

You can shuttle a vehicle between County Road 91 and Steamboat Pass Road for a five-mile hike or hike three miles further to County Road 4 and the Halverson Road Trailhead, located 2.5 miles south of junction of U.S. Hwy. 71 and County Road 4 in Lake George.

Popular hikes

In 2004, the Itasca Moraine Chapter developed a spur trail to a backcountry campsite on Waboose Lake. The campsite has two tent pads, a fire ring and a wilderness latrine.

The Waboose Trail is a four-mile loop around the undeveloped look, with mature pines, spruce, oaks, maples and birch. This popular trail is north of Nevis. Take County Road 2 north for five miles from State Hwy. 34 to Inner Forest Road, veering to the right, follow it 1.8 miles to Waboose Lake Access Road for 0.6 miles.

Between Itasca State Park and east to Waboose Lake there are 12 named lakes and over 100 unnamed lakes and ponds along 38 miles of the trail.

Nelson Lake and Lake 21 also have a 2.7-mile, figure-eight loop trail around them. The trail is near the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources’ Gulch Lakes Campground and can be found north of Akeley. Follow State Hwy. 64 north for 11.5 miles; west on East Gulch Forest Road for 1.2 miles; north for 0.8 miles; sharp west onto Gulch Lakes Road to the campground and on to the Nelson Lake access.

More resources

Due to a recent windstorm, the NCT is currently closed between U.S. Hwy. 71 and Spider Lake Road.

Matthew Davis, regional director of the NCT, said, “We're always looking for additional volunteers to help us do routine maintenance in addition to responding to these natural disturbances.”

According to Davis, folks interested in hiking can find more information about the NCT here:

NCTA's interactive map for the area is at https://arcg.is/1SGf050. NCTA's free hiking map downloads are at https://northcountrytrail.org/maps/mn_map_series_020_052_northcentral_mn.pdf (to print out) or https://www.avenzamaps.com/maps/850596 (to download to your smartphone). NCTA's Guide to Hiking the North Country Trail in Minnesota can be purchased here: https://shop.northcountrytrail.org/collections/books/products/guide-to-hiking-the-north-country-trail-in-minnesota. Walker celebration

The Itasca Moraine Chapter is hosting a multiple-day event in Walker, Minn. on Oct. 5-9.

The celebration offers opportunities to explore the NCT in unique locations, network with trail enthusiasts from North Dakota to Vermont and beyond, attend skills workshops and volunteer training, and participate in engaging evening presentations.

To learn more, visit northcountrytrail.org/annual-events/celebration. The deadline to register is Wednesday, Sept. 14.

Laurentian Lakes Chapter fall hikes 2022 Sept. 14: 9 a.m. – 400th Ave. Trailhead. Trailhead location is near Island Lake. From State Hwy. 34, turn north on Becker County 37 for 2.3 miles; west on Becker County 126 for 2.6 miles, then north on 400th Ave for 1.2 miles. This hike will be in the Tamarac National Wildlife Refuge and features a 1,000 foot puncheon across a spruce bog. This is a 4.5-mile hike. Sept. 21: 9 a.m. – Greenwater Trailhead. Trailhead location from State. Hwy. 34 is north on Becker County 37 for 9 miles; then west on Becker County 35 for 1.2 miles. This area crosses many wetlands and follows the Laurentian Divide. This is a 4.5 mile hike. Sept. 28: 9 a.m. – South entrance of Itasca State Park. This hike is 7.2 miles across the southern part of Itasca. See the backcountry campsites along Hernando De Sota Lake, along with old-growth majestic Norway pines.
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