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Q: Sapsuckers are making holes in our evergreen trees. What can we do, and does this damage the trees? 鈥� Lydia B.

A: Thanks for sending the photos. I think you鈥檙e catching the trouble in time. Sapsucker woodpeckers drill holes in tree trunks and main branches, allow the holes to fill with sap, and then drink the accumulated liquid.

The holes drilled by sapsuckers are often in rows, which can damage trees, especially when the holes extend all the way around the trunk, which interferes with the movement of water and nutrients within the tree. If holes are numerous, sapsuckers have been known to kill trees.

If sapsucker activity is noticed and mitigated early enough, the tree is usually fine. Several methods can be used to persuade the birds to locate elsewhere. Wrapping the area of activity with burlap, aluminum foil or cardboard can be effective, if the area is within reach.

Garden centers sell a sticky material created by the Tanglefoot company for repelling birds. The gooey substance doesn鈥檛 harm trees, but will quickly dissuade birds when applied to the area of activity.

Scare tactics sometimes work, at least short term, such as Mylar balloons and aluminum pie tins suspended from the branches.

Q: I鈥檇 like to get a rhubarb plant started. My neighbor is willing to give me a division from his. Can I do this now? 鈥� Amy T.

A: Rhubarb is a Midwestern staple and is so easy to grow. The preferred time to acquire a division is in early spring, just as new growth is emerging from the ground, or in September around Labor Day.

Dividing a rhubarb plant when it鈥檚 in full leaf is more stressful than doing the operation in spring or fall. If you and your neighbor would like to try digging and moving an 鈥渙ffset鈥� of his rhubarb plant this time of year, prepare the new location ahead of time, dig and move the division rapidly without letting roots dry out, and plant quickly, followed by thorough watering.

Digging and replanting a rhubarb division this time of year carries greater risk of something going wrong, but it can be done. If you opt to move it now, provide some wind and sun protection for a week or two to help the plant adjust to its new home.

Q: I planted a Haralson apple tree five years ago, but so far it isn鈥檛 giving us any fruit. There are no blossoms this spring either. Is there something we can do? 鈥� Andy S.

A: Apple trees begin bearing about five to seven years, on average, from time of planting. Some varieties, such as Haralson, can require nine years of growth before fruiting.

Apple cultivars vary in the length of time required to reach mature, fruit-bearing age, so patience is often required. There isn鈥檛 much we can do to hasten Mother Nature.

One thing that can be done is to limit lawn fertilizer in the proximity of apple trees. Lawn fertilizer is high in nitrogen, which stimulates leafy growth, often at the expense of flowering and fruiting. That鈥檚 fine for lawns, but it can delay apple tree fruiting.

Because tree roots extend outward from the trunk at least as far as the tree is high, sometimes two to three times that height, avoid fertilizing the lawn over the apple鈥檚 root zone.

Commercial apple orchards will usually remove apples that form prematurely on trees younger than the expected fruiting age. Fruits forming on trees too young sap the tree鈥檚 energy, taking it away from the formation of strong branches and vigorous roots that are needed for long-term tree health.

If you have a gardening or lawn care question, email Don Kinzler, NDSU Extension-Cass County, at donald.kinzler@ndsu.edu . Questions with broad appeal may be published, so please include your name, city and state for appropriate advice.